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Tom Doorley's Pick Of The Bunch

Irish Mail On Sunday - 26/04/2020 - Tom Doorley

We can still take a trip to distant lands with wine

The Corkscrew is one of my regular ports of call when I find myself in the capital. The sheer eclecticism of the range, coupled with the enthusiasm - "passion" is a much abused word - of the small team here makes a heady combination. It was founded way back in 1978 in Aughrim Street by one of the stalwarts of the Irish wine business, Peter Foley, and is now in owned by his son Paul.
There is a tardis-like quality to this shop on Chatham Street. Frankly, there are wine retailers with twice or more the space who deliver nothing as interesting, as varied or - critically - hand picked as the selection here.
And it's not just the range, the knowledge that (a) you're in safe hands and (b) that you can let you're oenological prejudices be challenged. There's much more to The Corkscrew than this. If you want to drink something more interesting than the Chilean house wines at your wedding, they will sort you out. if you have income to spare and want to invest in wine(it's a 'wasting asset' and therefore a very tax-efficient, I'm told) they will point you in the right direction.
If you just want to learn more about wine, in a structured but entertaining way, they have regular tutored wine tastings (when the world is normal, I should add)
My selection this week is, well, eclectic. The Corkscrew will deliver nationwide for €7.50 and delivery is free when you spend €120 or more.
Inter alia, I want to introduce you to a wine from Israel made from a local grape, to a remarkable red aged in amphorae in Armenia - straight from the ancient world but deliciously palatable and complex.
And there are more usual suspects, too, such as two brilliant examples of exceptional Chianti at two different levels: the Classico, described below, and it's sibling Classici Reserva 2013 (€39.95) with its glorious complexity, intensity and ageing potential.

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  1. Casa Emma Chianti Classico (37.5cl)

  2. Segal, `Levant` Judean Hills Argaman

  3. Casa Emma Chianti Classico

  4. Aubert & Mathieu Corbieres 2016

  5. Zorah, Areni Noir, Karasi, Armenia 2017

  6. Casa Emma Chianti Classico Riserva 2015


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